Entwined Matters

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Completion Year: August 2024 Project Location: Valga, Estonia Material: Off-cut textile Collaborator (Material provider): Aclima Organiser: VARES Project Partner: Tartu 2024, European Capital of Culture Production: PAN- PROJECTS & VARES Photo / Video: Yuta Sawamura Video Music: Aya Yoshida Video Sound Design: Mai Sukegawa

Entwined Matters is a project created by London-based architectural design studio PAN- PROJECTS to recreate off-cut textiles from a clothing factory into unique ropes. Though high in quality and design, these by-products of the fashion industry are typically discarded as industrial waste. While some efforts exist to repurpose them, these often involve shredding the fabric with specialised machinery, which can strip away much of its original value. The project arose from a desire to recognise the inherent qualities of these off-cuts and explore how they could be directly transformed into new materials or products. Off-cuts are usually produced by cutting large rolls of fabric into various shapes, leaving irregular pieces that are often still connected. By twisting and intertwining these fragments, the project transforms them into strong and characteristic ropes. What were once fragile, overlooked by-products have been reimagined into cohesive forms with unique textures and appearances. Historically, ropes have played a significant role in human life, from practical tools to elements in religious rituals. "Entwined Matters" transforms these discarded fabrics into a material with its own distinct aesthetic and potential for further use. The future applications and forms this material may take are left to the creativity of those who work with it.

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EXHIBITION: “know the ropes” The works of Entwined Matters are exhibited in the former district office of Valga, Estonia which building has been abandoned for years since it caught fire in the early 2000s. The exhibition “know the ropes” showcases experimental works of Entwined Matters in each space where the ropes correspond to the existing building, creating unique architectural dialogues in between the ruin and the art of by-products. The exhibition is created within the VARES architecture residency programme which is a part of the European Capital of Culture Tartu 2024 main programme. The textile offcuts used for the show are donated by the local clothing factory in Valga, producing garments for the Norwegian brand Aclima. ART OF ROPES: Transforming materials into a rope is synonymous with embodying force to the materials. A rope is the result of weak substances being entwined with strength and resilience, which in turn generates the material's inherent strength. The ropes imply alternative perception towards the materials we often ignore—unveiling unseen values by recognising the unique characteristics of each material as works of art in their own right. Entwined Matters are not shaped yet but are considered raw materials. The creation of shapes and functions will follow as humanity is inspired by ropes in history. Just naming a few, ropes are used to create rags, sofas, shoes, bags, scarves, decorations, chairs, joints, rituals and so on. One finds limitless creation of ropes across the world in both traditional and contemporary references. ROPE AS A MATERIAL: These ropes are conceived not only as a product but also as a new material. Ropes are among the earliest materials conceived by humanity, predating the wheel, the axe, and even fire. One theory posits that the origins of architecture are closely linked to the invention of ropes. In their most primitive form, ropes enabled the firm binding of objects, significantly broadening the possibilities for constructing and combining materials. The creation of ropes likely began with the twisting and braiding of grass. Through human ingenuity, these small and fragile elements were gathered, twisted, and transformed into a resilient material. Ropes have long inspired humankind, playing essential roles not only as everyday tools but also as symbols in religious and spiritual contexts. ACCESSIBLE TECHNIQUES: A critical consideration when repurposing by-products (wastes) as materials is the use of simple and ordinary techniques in the materialisation process. As the by-products are highly accessible materials by anyone, devising versatile production methods that do not rely excessively on specialised techniques is critical to democratising them. The technique of twisting used to create ropes is a remarkably simple and adaptable method. It can be performed manually without specialised tools (or one can DIY a simple and affordable tool that helps make the ropes faster), allowing off-cuts of varying shapes to be transformed into functional ropes without the need for cutting or sewing. As the technique is highly accessible, the method has the potential to help solve the waste issues of the fashion industry to become more sustainable.

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